THE WINE INSPECTOR: ROOM SERVICE

The Hotel du Vin chain of boutique hotels take their alcohol seriously. In his latest column, Tim Atkin heads to one in Birmingham to sniff the 750-bin wine list ...

From INTELLIGENT LIFE Magazine, Summer 2009

Every one of the 66 rooms at the Hotel du Vin in Birmingham is named after an alcoholic beverage. The roster is an intriguing cuvée of Champagnes, table wines, spirits and the odd beer. Some of the brands, it must be said, are more glamorous than others. Given the choice, would you rather be shown to the Krug, Beefeater, Fullers or Umani Ronchi suite? Yup, me too.

There’s nothing wrong with this as a business model. In fact, it makes a lot of financial sense. As well as paying to have their brand name on a door, sponsors provide the boutique hotel chain with free posters, maps and point-of-sale material. In return, they get at least one spot on the wine list. To me, it’s a slightly uncomfortable exchange. Are these bottles selected on merit or to satisfy a sales manager?

The Birmingham Hotel du Vin, in an imposing, former Victorian eye hospital near St Philip’s Cathedral Square, is the largest in the group, with its own pub, Champagne bar and bistro. The 750-bin wine list, sponsored by Screwpull, is in the hands of a frighteningly young, but extremely competent Frenchman called François Bourde. It is a tribute to Gérard Basset, one of the group’s co-founders that, even after his departure, the Hotel du Vin still attracts some of the best Gallic talent.

There are actually two wine lists at the Hotel du Vin. The stylish Bubble Bar specialises in wines by the glass (four fizzes, ten whites, nine reds and a rosé). These wines are chosen centrally and are common to all 14 hotels. The selections are decently priced if somewhat unadventurous: five of the whites are Chardonnays, while Merlot features, either as a varietal or as part of a blend, in four of the reds. If you want a glass before your meal, I’d recommend the spicy, stone-fruity 2007 Laroche Viognier, Vin de Pays d’Oc (£5.65), the stylish, Bordeaux-like 2005 Puig & Roca Augustus Cabernet/Merlot, Penedès (£7.10), or the house Champagne from Raoul Collet (£7.60).

Talking of bubbles, the main wine list features 52 Champagnes and eight sparkling wines. The emphasis is on Champagne houses, rather than individual growers, but the selection is still impressive, with top wines from Gosset, Jacques Selosse, Bollinger, Alfred Gratien, Pol Roger, Ruinart and Henriot. I also applaud the decision to include two English bubblies, Nyetimber and Balfour Rosé.

The other speciality is sweet wines. Bourde has put together an impressive line-up of more than 70 stickies, covering all of the major sources, from Sauternes to the Mosel, Alsace to Australia, Tokaji to the Douro Valley. There are very few hotels that can match this depth or quality. I’d like to see some more wines offered by the glass (there are five), but with 22 half-bottles, you can’t complain about lack of choice.

After these high points, the rest of the list is a slight let-down. One problem is that there are no wine notes and no stylistic guidance. You could argue that that’s what the sommelier is there to provide, but why not separate wines by grape variety/varieties, oak-influence, alcohol content or weight, rather than just country and region?

The list covers the entire world, yet does so unevenly. California, for example—a place whose wines are generally over-priced—has a disproportionate number of bins. There are 16 red wines from the Golden State, most of which cost more than £100. Even a wine-loving American would balk at paying £430 for a bottle of 1999 Harlan Estate from the Napa Valley. For the rest of us, it’s don’t-even-think-about-it territory.

There’s also too much emphasis on France. All four rosés are French and none of them is a 2008. How about listing a younger, fresher wine from Chile, Spain or Australia? Similarly, there are three dry whites from Anjou, hardly the most celebrated wine region, but only two from New Zealand. That said, the Burgundies, clarets and regional French wines are well chosen, in the main. And anyone who lists an Irouléguy, a Cabardès, a St Bris and a Madiran is prepared to take a few risks.

You don’t have to stay at the Hotel du Vin to dine in the bistro. Indeed, on the night I ate there, the place was full of locals enjoying the hearty, well-priced food. With such a good sommelier at your disposal, I’d be tempted to order a glass or two of white wine and a bottle of red. Tell him what you’re eating and ask him to choose. I had a 2006 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir, Martinborough (£79) and it was delicious. More to the point, Ata Rangi doesn’t even sponsor a room.

Hotel du Vin & Bistro Church Street, Birmingham; +44 (0)121 200 0600

IN THE BIN:

Number of wines 750
By the glass 29 incl. five sweet wines
Under £30 75 Over £100 80
Best value 2006 Pierre Gaillard Syrah, Vin de Pays des Collines, Rhodaniennes £25.50
Worst value 1999 Harlan Estate, Napa Valley (£430)
Gluggability four out of five stars
Expense account adjuster* two out of five stars
Sancerre index** 2.58

* Probability that the next-door table are paying with the company’s money
** The 2007 Sancerre Terres Blanches, Domaine Thomas is £29.50 on the list, or £11.39 per bottle from Georges Barbier

Picture credit: Sam Barker (of Tim Atkin)

(Tim Atkin is a Master of Wine. His last column for Intelligent Life was about his favourite wine bar in London.)